I *heart* Melbourne

Yesterday evening it started to cool down (except in our room, of course, where it's still about 50 degrees). You can't imagine how nice 37 degrees can feel... However, most of the day was still hellishly hot, so my plan had been to stay indoors most of the time. Then I found out that all the public transport was free (because of the heat, although I'm not really sure how that's connected), so I decided to seize the moment and take the tram down to St. Kilda, the city's nearest beach. It was kind of strange down there. Very empty, because it was just too hot for most people to be out. I also left quickly to go to the Australian Centre for the Moving Image to see the exhibition "Setting the Scene" about film design. It was excellent, really interesting, and made me see "Australia" (the movie) in a new light. Might have to watch it again (and not just because of the shower scene...). Afterwards, another movie (Milk with Sean Penn, really good one, too).

Maybe what I've written about Melbourne so far doesn't sound too exciting, but I really love this city! I can't really say why but it just feels right, and I would stay here - if it weren't for all the people I love who are far from here (yes, dear blog reader, this probably includes you)! While Melbourne seems like the perfect city for me, it's not good enough without my friends and family. So please, can you move here???

No, I won't complain about the heat!

Even though it's like 45 degrees in the shade. And the wind is even hotter (the opposite of wind-chill). But I wanted to escape the winter, and here I am, living in a sauna. So I couldn't be very active. Went to the Queen Victoria night market yesterday - with live music, loads of different food and drink places plus arts and crafts type stands. They also had a place where you could get massages, so I had a 20 minute reflexology session which was very relaxing. Did I mention it was hot, though? Today, I went out very early and saw Brunswick street (a lot like Kastanienallee in Berlin) but many shops were closed because of the heat. Then to the (air-conditioned) Melbourne Museum, which had some good exhibits, but failed to overwhelm. In the afternoon, I went to see a film (air-conditioned cinema). I think a similar program will be repeated tomorrow (museum and cinema), and then I hope the weather forecast is true and it will cool down of Saturday. I'm not complaining, though!

Australia Day!

On Monday, it was Australia Day! After continuing the lovely drive down the Great Ocean Road (more koalas along the road - yawn!), we got into Melbourne pretty late and so didn't join in any of the official celebrations, but we decorated the bus (and ourselves), and were in time to visit the fireworks from the rooftop terrace of the great Melbourne Metro YHA (probably the best place I stayed in so far)!

Beautiful Coastline

Next, it was down to the coast and the limestone rock formations that are the start of the Great Ocean Road. Once again, pictures don't really do it justice. It was just gorgeous. We stayed overnight in Port Campbell, at a backpackers right on the beach!

To the Grampians

The first day of the tour to Melbourne ended up in the Grampians National Park (after driving through very long stretches of very dry land, and of course crossing to another timezone). About half of the area we were in was burnt by large bushfires about three years ago, and we learned that the Aboriginals actually welcome these fires as a way of regenerating nature and putting nutrients back into the soil. It's obviously working - new life is coming out of blackened tree stumps everywhere. The highlight for me was my first kangaroo sighting (in the wild as opposed to a zoo and alive as opposed to dead by the roadside). And I saw loads more in the following days, as well.

We stayed in a very nice backpackers, and started early the next morning to hike the Pinnacles. It was well worth getting up for - the views from the top were stunning! After having a look round the local visitor center, we went on towards the coast. Lunch was in a spot in an ex-volcanic lake, and would have been great if only 2 billion flys hadn't decided to have lunch there, as well... But apart from the flys, there were also wild koalas and emus!

Another day, another timezone

Have arrived in Adelaide on Wednesday, and it's not just the time that's different, but also the climate: Mediterranean and very, very nice. Not too hot (around 30), not too humid, not too many flies. Yesterday I explored the Central Food Market, which in my opinion is even better than Barcelona's Boqueria! Then I had a walk along Torrens River, where for the first time I really smelled lots of eucalyptus in the air. Had an amazing (and apparently carbon-neutral) pizza in North Adelaide's O'Connel Street.

Today, I went on a wine-tasting tour in the Barossa Valley. Surprisingly, it was the Germans who brought the wine to this region (I always thought it must have been the Italians, Barossa somehow sounds like it). We went to four places, after the second we were all happily singing in the bus, after the fourth everyone fell asleep.

Tomorrow I'm heading off towards Melbourne along the Great Ocean Road.

The Rock

Just a very quick update: Spent the last three days around Uluru (aka Ayers Rock). This was something I hadn't planned to do originally, because I'd seen the photo so many times that I thought it would probably be kind of boring. I'm so glad I changed my mind! It was an organised tour, great group, great guides and we went on wonderful hikes and camped under the stars at night (just sleeping in swags, which are a kind of more sturdy sleeping bags with a little mattress inside). I loved it! But it did feel good to take a shower again tonight at the hostel in Alice Springs. Uluru is really so much more than just the standard sunset photo (although I took about 200 of them, as well), and the surrounding area with Kings Canyon and Kata Tjuta (aka The Olgas) is also breathtaking. See new diashow for more.

The joys of travel

Sometimes, travel is just plain boring. Like Wednesday in Airlie Beach, when the buses to Cairns were cancelled (due to flooding) and it rained all day (due to wet season). Or Thursday, when the buses were going, at least for one hour out of Airlie, before having to stop for 3 hours (due to flooding) at this lovely reststop in Bowen. According to a sign at the city limits, "Nic, Hugh and Baz loved it in Bowen". Well, Meike didn't. Although they

probably saw a different side of the town...

We finally made it into Cairns at about 2am Friday morning. Meanwhile, I've noticed that there are two groups of travellers around: Those who had no idea that there is such a thing as a wet season in Northern Queensland, and those (like myself) who kind of knew it, but thought that it somehow wouldn't apply to us. It can't rain all the time, right? Well, I now know: It can. It can rain for 48 hours more or less continuously. So if you ever plan a trip to the Whitsunday or the Great Barrier Reef, keep it in mind!

On the boat again, I can't wait to get on the boat again...

Back from my three-day Whitsunday cruise, I'm a bit sad to be on dry land again. Although, dry land is not quite correct, as we're seeing the effects of cyclone Charlotte here in Airlie Beach, and it's everything but dry. But never mind, the cruise was fantastic! The islands and beaches are absolutely stunning (Whitehaven is perfection), we did some snorkelling (although I must say the Maldives have probably spoiled me for life - I wasn't that impressed here, plus always in a mild panic about the jellyfish), the food on board was first class, and I've met great people on board! Apart from many colourful fish, we also saw big turtles in the sea and on the last night dolphins jumping in the light of the full moon (almost too kitsch to be believable).

But now I'm back, it's pouring and storming and I have done some serious revision of my travel plans. I think I've had enough of the tropic wet season now. I'm still going to Cairns tomorrow (if it's possible on the roads, which are flooded right now), but cutting my time there short to go into the center and see Uluru after all... So watch this space.

Airlie Beach

Today I said goodbye to Brisbane and went up to Airlie Beach, which is further North along the coast. It's the gateway to the Whitsunday Islands group, and this is why I'm here: tomorrow I'll start a 3-day sailing trip around these islands. Have a look at our ship. Doesn't look too bad now, does it? I'll report back next week.

South Bank and more

Like other cities that don't have access to the sea, Brisbane has built a fake beach on its riverbank (Paris Plage and Berlin's Strandbars come to mind). But this one's the best I've seen yet - it's a real lagoon where you can actually swim (big enough so it's not too full, even now in the summer holidays), complete with toilets, changing rooms and lifeguards on duty! And the South Bank has even more to offer: In the past couple of days I visited the Gallery of Modern Art and saw the exhibition on Contemporary Australian Optimism, which was a lot of fun. Then I played my way through the history of videogames at the Queensland State Library - from Pong via Space Invaders and Pacman to the latest Wii games. I'm really impressed by how modern and interactive the museums etc here are (and mostly free, too). I also had a look in the Queensland Museum, which contains lots of totally different things (anything as long as it's got something to do with Queensland). I only had a look at the Aboriginal/Torres Strait Islanders part there - shocking to see what Europeans did to them on first arriving here.

I also did the hop-on-hop-off bustour (which was ok, highlight for me Mt Coot-tha, from which you have a great view over the city and the botanic gardens), went up and down the river by CityCat (I'll do more of that later...) and had the greatest veggie burger ever (even beats Queenstown's Ferg) at Grill'd. So, been quite busy in spite of the heat (I mainly go to the museums for their aircon ;-))

P.S.: The picture is Brisbane Center from the South Bank.

Brisbane

After a few days of low bloctivity, I hope to get back on track from now on. My credit card is still gone, but my lovely parents have sent cash via Western Union, which I put on a sort of debit card, and I feel a lot better :-)

Now I'm in Brisbane, and really very positively surprised by this city. To sum it up in a few words:

Brisbane = (Frankfurt + London's South Bank) + Paris plage * Miami.

When I arrived on Saturday, it was pouring down (it is the rainy season, so I'm not holding it against anyone), therefore I went to see Australia. (After watching Vicky Cristina Barcelona in Barcelona and Australia in Australia, I wish I could see In Bruges again - in Bruges). Well, what can I say. The film was certainly better than walking around in the rain and had some really strong points (-> Hugh Jackman's abs).

Yesterday, I visited the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary. It's possible to reach by bus (cheaper), but I went along a river cruise to and from the place, which was great. We went past a colony of Flying Foxes - really big bats. Here they are, sleeping in the trees:

Speaking of sleeping in the trees - of course I also saw many koalas. They are not very active, either. But cute!

While they don't eat anything but certain types of eucalyptus leaves, I like Indian food (among other things), and can recommend the Sultan's Kitchen in Paddington. Great fresh food and super-friendly service.